Earlier in the year I read an interesting article by writer and farmer Patrick Laurie about the seasonality of beef which resonated with me….bear with me here…
As we all know beef like almost every other meat and many fruit and vegetables are now available 365 days of the year in our Supermarkets, it is something we have got used to and now expect. There is very little truly seasonal produce anymore and I think this is to the detriment of the quality of what we buy. Who wouldn’t rather have a sweet sun warmed strawberry picked fresh in the field on hot June afternoon than a tasteless refrigerated berry purporting to be a strawberry in December which has been shipped thousands of miles for our convenience.
One of the reasons we have always kept geese for Christmas and eggs is because of their seasonality. At the Food Fair in Beccles at the weekend the Goose eggs attracted a lot of interest, mainly because of their size. Then conversations follow…we are used to eggs being available all year round so there is some amazement when we explain that goose eggs have a “season” and in fact quite a short one. Tradition states that the geese will start laying on Valentines day (give or take!) but will stop laying in June …so they are available for just 4 months out of 12, and because they only lay for a short window the geese that sit on your Christmas Table are also only available at Christmas.
I had never really thought of this concept in relation to Beef, or in particular our Beef and the way we raise our animals living outside all year and with no supplementary feeding other than grass or hay.
When we take our animals to the abattoir they are “independently graded” under the EUROP classification for confirmation and fat cover. This system was introduced by the EU in the 1980’s and still determines how much a farmer is paid if he sells his animals through the abattoir to a butcher or supermarket. The grading system applies a letter from E to P with E being excellent and P being poor and then a fat cover number from 1 to 5. The best prices are paid for animals falling in the middle of this range an R3, and farmers are rewarded for consistency.
Our belties would usually grade an R or O and fat cover can be very variable from 2 to 5. As we sell directly to our customers the confirmation grading between and O and R makes little difference. Fat cover is important, a carcass with a fat cover of 4 or 5 will be ideal for very long hanging which in turn increases intensity of flavour and tenderness. Whereas a carcass with a fat cover of 2 will be better hung for a shorter time period. By contrast supermarket beef may be hung for 7 to 14 days.
So this brings me back to Patrick Laurie’s article on the seasonality of beef….in medieval times November was the “Beef Season” this is because the grass had failed by then and young animals were at their fattest. In the days before electric refrigeration it would have been madness to kill the animals in the warmer months unless there was a huge gathering of hungry mouths. So killing coincided with the first chills of winter when animals are fat and the weather is cold….and this is exactly what we find on our system. Our animals come off the marshes in the autumn after a fine summer of lush grass and sunshine with a good cover of fat on their backs…between August and September they will grade between 3 and 5…but at the other end of the year from February to May “the hungry months” they will have used some of their fat reserves to get through the winter and will be grading 2-3. Cattle on commercial enterprises in comparison, will be “finished” usually with grains but also soya, bakery waste and brewers grains so that they do not fall below a fat cover of 3 regardless of the time of year.
So to provide beef throughout the year there will be variations in fat cover, our “fattest” animals will be those between August and February and the “leaner “ ones from March to July….although you may not notice much difference as they will all taste delicious!
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